Should I buy a used bow or a new one? Where to find a great deal? What to look for in a bow? Buying a bow doesn’t have to be a convoluted process. Sometimes we make things more complicated than they need to be. In this article we break down and answer these questions, helping you find a bow that’s right for you.
Used or new?
Let’s face it, it’s really fun to buy new stuff. Finding the latest and greatest “new thing”, bragging to all your friends, making it a cozy bed right next to yours… Ok maybe not that last one, but the point stands that it’s really satisfying to have the best. But let me ask, is that really what you need?
When you’re looking to buy a new bow, or even upgrading what you’re currently using, you very likely don’t need the newest most high-tech bow on the market. There are plenty of great used bows out there that will get the job done for a fraction of the price.
If you are a target archer and need the flattest shooting, stable, most accurate bow that money can buy then sure, go out and get what you need. For most of us who want a reliable hunting bow however a used bow can work just fine. For this article we’re going to assume the latter, that you’re looking for a great hunting bow for a great price.
Where do you find a bow?
There are a lot of options available to you on where you can buy a bow.
Craigslist:
Pros:
- People are not usually looking to make money on their sale so you can find some great deals. I know it seems like I take a loss on every thing I sell online.
- You get to look at the bow in person and inspect it yourself. You may even get to shoot (or see the seller shoot) it. It’s a good idea to plan ahead and make sure the seller is willing to demonstrate or let you shoot, you may need to meet at a range or somewhere you can legally shoot.
- A lot of the time a used bow comes with accessories like a sight, rest, quiver, arrows, etc. This can save you hundreds of dollars which is a huge perk.
Cons:
- You may have to drive further to meet with the seller.
- It’s possible to get a lemon, which is pretty easy to avoid if you’re careful. If you doubt your ability to spot an issue in a used bow, you can meet at a local archery shop and let the bow tech examine it for you.
Pro-shop:
Pros:
- You’re going to get a new bow which almost eliminates the possibility of getting a lemon.
- You have access to a knowledgeable staff that will help you find a bow that fits you.
- You can shoot a bunch of different bows and find the one that speaks to you. Most pro-shops have a range on-site where you can try it before you buy it.
Cons:
- You’re likely going to pay more for the same quality bow.
- Unless you buy a “package” you’re likely going to have to buy all the add-ons (sight, rest, arrows, case, etc.) to make your new bow usable.
- Sales tax.
- Limited selection, a lot of pro-shops only carry a few brands.
- Occasionally you might run into a greasy salesman that’s trying to sell you more than you need or pressure you into buying now. This is the exception but it does happen from time to time. Remember, you don’t have to by today. If you feel you’re being pressured, just walk away.
Big-box Hunting Stores:
Pros:
- Usually a bit cheaper than a pro-shop.
- Sometimes they have an in-house brand where you can get a lot of bow at a cheaper price than a name brand bow. You’ll have to research their reputation and read some reviews. This can be a great way to go if you’re getting your first bow.
- A return policy. If something horrible happens or you just hate the bow you got you can return it.
Cons:
- A lot of the same cons as the pro-shop.
Ebay:
Pros:
- There are some really great deals out there.
- You can return your purchase if the seller was dishonest or the bow doesn’t function. Ebay usually settles with the buyer.
Cons:
- There’s no way to check out the bow before you buy it.
- The bow could get damaged in shipping if the seller doesn’t know what they’re doing.
What kind of bow should you buy?
Compound:
If you’re new to bow hunting and you’re serious about killing a deer this year, I would suggest you get a compound bow. The reason is simple, a repeatable aiming method. All compound bows use a sight and deliver a consistent point of aim at fixed distances. There is very little room for interpretation. For the beginner it’s simply the fastest way to get proficient with a bow and arrow.
Compound bows are also faster which means that they shoot the arrow on a flatter trajectory. The arrow doesn’t rise and fall as much in the air as it does with a traditional bow. Think about lobbing a ball high in the air to the target versus a baseball pitcher throwing the ball in a straight line; that’s an exaggerated example of what I’m talking about.
For a beginner, the compound bow is a lot more forgiving than a traditional bow. There are a few key components that make this true. First is the rest, which holds the arrow up as you draw the bow back. Many bows are equipped with a drop-away rest which, as you release the arrow, falls down, leaving the arrow suspended in the air as the string propels it forward. This is a major advantage as once the arrow is no longer touching the bow, its trajectory can no longer be influenced. This allows the archer to have relatively poor grip form or even flinch when executing the shot. Second is the mechanical release. There are many types of releases but they all perform the same basic function: grip the string as you draw the bow. The mechanical release lets go of the string extremely quickly, much faster than your fingers. The less contact and the quicker the release of the string the better.
I don’t mean to suggest that form is unimportant when shooting a compound bow or that it’s easy. I simply mean that the platform is more forgiving and has a shorter learning curve for someone who is just starting out. There are plenty of great archers that just stick to the compound bow. It is a killing machine that produces reliable function at deadly speeds. It’s a great option if you want to put meat in your freezer fast.
Recurve/longbow:
If a challenge is what you’re after, a traditional bow could be a good fit. Traditional archery can be extremely frustrating, but as most things in life, the greater the challenge, the greater the reward. There are many points where a slight breakdown in form can compromise the entire shot. The three greatest differences between a traditional bow and a compound bow are: no fixed sight, the finger release, and no let-off of the draw weight.
There are a few methods to aiming a traditional bow, but they do not involve a fixed sight. That’s not to say you can’t put a sight on a traditional bow, but most archers don’t. The three most notable aiming methods are gap shooting, instinctive shooting, or string walking.
- Gap shooting is where you memorize the visual distance between the point of your arrow and the target. For example, if you know the target is 20 yards away, you know that you need to hold 3 inches below your target.
- Instinctive shooting is where you focus on the target, your brain compensates for where to hold your point of aim, and you release. The cliche to explain this is the way you would throw a baseball. You don’t aim your arm, you just throw. Your brain just knows what to do to hit your target. The more practice at different distances the more you train your eye and your brain to make the right adjustments.
- String walking is where you grip the string at different points based on the distance you are shooting. For example, you know the target is 20 yards away so you grip the string two inches below the nock point (where the arrow connects to the string).
Both gap shooting and string walking require the archer to know the distance to the target before they execute the shot. This isn’t really a disadvantage since most bowhunters carry a rangefinder with them anyways. Instinctive shooting doesn’t have this limitation. However it can take a very long time and lots of intentional practice to train your brain to the correct distance.
The finger release is another difference between traditional archery and using a compound bow. As I mentioned earlier the compound bow uses a mechanical release but not so with a traditional bow. Here you grip the string with your fingers; most archers use a finger tab or a glove to protect their finger tips from the string. The release is a vital part of the shot. A clean release will minimize any interference with the arrow but a sloppy release can greatly impact its trajectory.
The last major difference we are going to cover is the lack of a let-off in weight as you draw the bow. On a compound bow there is a point while drawing the bow that the weight “lets off” and the archer only has to pull/hold a small percentage of the draw weight. For example, if the bow’s draw weight is 50 pounds with a let-off of 80% then the archer would only need to hold back 10 pounds. With a traditional bow, there is no let-off. In fact, the further the bow is pulled back, the higher the draw weight becomes. This is the reason the draw weight is marked at a specific draw length (52#@28” – 52 pounds at 28 inches).
Traditional archery is a great challenge and is a LOT of fun. Bowhunting with a trad bow is the ultimate challenge and requires a great deal of patience and practice. All of these factors lead me to recommend that, if you are just starting out and you want to get bowhunting as quickly as possible, you should start with a compound bow. But if everything I’ve listed out gets you excited about buying a traditional bow, then I say go for it!
What to look for when buying a used bow:
Buying a used bow is usually a simple process. Here are a few things that you should be aware of and look for when buying used.
This is assuming you are buying a compound bow but these principles apply to a traditional bow as well.
Important: Know how much weight you can pull back. Bows typically can be adjusted between a certain weight range (i.e. 40# – 50# or 60# – 70#). If you buy a 60# – 70# bow and can only pull 40# you will be VERY disappointed. One caveat to this is some bows (usually beginner bows) can be adjusted to a wide range of poundages (i.e. 35# – 70#). If you don’t know, ask or look it up.
Overall condition:
Give the bow a good look over. Keep in mind though that this bow will need to be adjusted to fit you. The draw length and weight will likely need to be adjusted as well as the position of the D-loop and peep sight.
Limbs
The limbs are what store the energy of the bow and move the string forward thus propelling the arrow forward. Look for any hairline cracks or chips in the limbs, they might be hard to see so look closely. If you can, draw the bow back and listen for any mechanical sounds, creaking or popping. Some light creaking on an older bow is ok but it shouldn’t be loud. Don’t dry fire the bow.
Cams/pulleys
The cams are the pulleys that attach the string to the bow. There’s not a whole lot to go wrong here. Just make sure there aren’t any major dings and they don’t look bent.
Alignment
I’m not sure if it matters or that my eye could tell if there is a problem but I like to sight down the bow and make sure everything looks in alignment.
String condition
The condition of the string is very important. Replacing a string usually runs around $100 give or take. Look for any large frays or if there are any fibers cut. Be sure to check the “serving” too, which is a smaller string tightly wrapped around the main string. This is for protecting the string in high use areas.
Wrapping it up
Buying a bow can be a really fun experience or a nightmare. The more you know the better off you’ll be but I wouldn’t make it out to be a huge ordeal. Be careful and be aware of scammers and you should be fine. I really hope that these tips help you find your next bow and you find a great bow that will accompany you on many great hunts… or tournaments… or backyard fun, whatever you decide to do with it!
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